Pro Tips & Gear for how to photograph a solar eclipse with a smartphone and a telescope attachment for beginners

Buying Guide: How to Photograph a Solar Eclipse with a Smartphone + Telescope

Why You Need a Smartphone Solar Filter

Never point an unprotected phone camera at the sun. Even during a partial eclipse, the intense light and infrared radiation can permanently damage your phone’s image sensor. A smartphone solar filter (often a sheet or screw-on lens) blocks 99.999% of visible and IR light. Look for filters labeled “white light solar” or “Baader film.” These are cheap and slip over your phone’s main lens. For a telescope setup, you’ll also need a telescope-specific solar filter (see below)—don’t confuse the two.

The Telescope + Smartphone Adapter: Your Magnification Workhorse

To capture the sun’s corona, prominences, and detailed crescent during totality, you need magnification. A telescope with a smartphone adapter kit is the entry-level game-changer. Key specs:

Aperture: At least 50mm (entry-level refractor) to gather enough light.
Focal length: 400-700mm to get a solar disc that fills 30-50% of your phone’s frame.
Adapter: Must have a spring-loaded clamp (not a flimsy rubber band) that fits your phone model and aligns the phone’s camera precisely with the eyepiece.
Why it works: The adapter holds your phone steady against the telescope eyepiece, replacing shaky handheld shots with crisp, aligned frames. Many kits include a universal bracket and a remote shutter trigger.

Full Aperture Telescope Solar Filter (Non-Negotiable)

Do not use eyepiece filters on a telescope—they can shatter from focused heat. Instead, buy a full-aperture solar filter that covers the front of the telescope objective lens. Critical spec: Must meet ISO 12312-2:2015 safety standard. This filter goes on before you even point the scope at the sun. Measure your telescope’s front diameter (e.g., 70mm) and buy the matching size. Alternatives like solar viewing glasses placed over the eyepiece are dangerous for your equipment.

Smartphone Tripod Mount (Stability = Detail)

Even with a telescope adapter, your phone’s weight can cause tiny vibrations. A clamp-on smartphone tripod mount lets you attach your phone to a regular camera tripod. Look for:

A 360-degree rotating head for portrait/landscape mode.
Rubberized grips that won’t scratch your phone.
Compatibility with your phone’s case (some mounts require a bare phone).
Pair this with a lightweight travel tripod (20-30 inch max height) to keep the whole rig stable on a table or low stand.

Remote Shutter Release (Bluetooth)

Touching the phone’s screen—even with a timer—causes micro-movement that blurs corona details. A Bluetooth remote shutter (a small clip-on button or dedicated key fob) triggers the camera without vibration. Pro tip: Use a 2-second delay mode in your camera app as backup, but the remote is faster for burst shooting during totality.

Solar Eclipse Viewing Glasses (Safety for You)

You must protect your eyes while looking through the telescope to align it. ISO 12312-2 certified glasses are essential. Buy them early—supplies vanish before major eclipses. Look for the CE and ISO marks on the packaging. A single pair covers both viewing and aligning the telescope (but never use them as a camera filter).

Camera App with Manual Controls

Your phone’s default camera app will overexpose the sun or lock focus on clouds. Install an app like ProCam, Lightroom Mobile, or Open Camera that offers:

Manual ISO: Set to 100 (lowest noise).
Manual Shutter Speed: Start at 1/1000th sec for partial phases, then 1/60th to 1/250th for totality.
Manual Focus: Lock to infinity (or tape the focus ring on your telescope).
RAW capture: Essential for editing solar corona details later.
Free apps exist, but paid ones often have better exposure histogram and bulb mode.

Lens Cleaning Kit (No Blur)

Dust or smudges on your phone’s camera lens or the telescope eyepiece create soft, washed-out images. A microfiber cloth and lens pen are cheap insurance. Use the air blower first to remove grit, then the microfiber with gentle circles. Avoid using your shirt or paper towels.

Portable Power Bank (Don’t Lose Power)

A solar eclipse shoot can last 2-4 hours. Your phone’s battery will drain fast with constant live view, Wi-Fi transfers, and the camera app running. A 10,000mAh or higher power bank keeps your phone charged—and can power a Bluetooth remote. Look for USB-C Power Delivery (PD) to fast-charge modern iPhones and Android phones.

External SD Card Reader or USB-C Hub

After the eclipse, you’ll want to backup photos immediately. Your phone’s internal storage fills quickly (especially with RAW files). A USB-C to SD card reader or a small hub lets you import photos to a laptop or external drive on the go. Bonus: Some hubs have a microSD slot for the telescope’s camera (if you upgrade later).

Final Assembly Checklist

Before Eclipse Day: Practice mounting the phone, aligning the telescope, and using the manual app.
Morning of: Clean all lenses, attach the solar filter to the telescope, and set up the tripod in a clear-sky spot.
During Eclipse: Use the remote shutter to take bursts every 10 seconds during partial phases. At totality (if you’re in the path), remove the solar filter from the telescope—this is the only safe moment to capture the corona. Replace it immediately after totality ends.
Edit Later: Use a free app like Snapseed or Lightroom to boost shadows (corona detail) and reduce highlights (solar disc).

Remember: Safety first—never look at the sun through a telescope or viewfinder without proper filters. Your photos can be spectacular, but your eyesight is irreplaceable.